A Travellerspoint blog

The earth is alive

Bromo- Tengger- Semeru National Park

An active volcano: sulfurous smoke bellowing out from the depths of the earth. The speaking earth grumbling and groaning with deep roars as it liberates the yellow fumes high into the sky. The grey, flat sand sea of ash and lava, expanding 10km across. The high green wall encircling the energetic volcano. A sense that this scene before me isn’t real, but rather a fake, superimposed illustration.

Mt Bromo is Java’s most active volcano, and in January this year there was an eruption; resulting in an ash- rain to fall on nearby villages.
To get to Cemoro Lawang (the mountain village lying directly opposite the park), we took a 1.5 hour bumpy, head- lolling minivan ride up the mountain. There must have been some serious bad weather recently- as most of the roads were damaged (deep ditches) and the surrounding landscape covered in mudslides. We climbed up continuously- passing hundreds and hundreds of vegetable patches flourishing in the volcanic minerals. Java has the most fertile land in the whole year, and some areas have 3 crops a year.

We arrived at Café Lava and checked in. It was raining, so we took the opportunity to eat! I had a scrumptious meal (“gada- gada”) of rice, boiled egg, fried tofu, vegetables and peanut sauce, washed down with a refreshing beer. Super! When the rain stopped we walked up to the edge of the wall and looked across to Bromo- the most spectacular sight I have ever seen! There are 2 volcanos- Mt Bromo (2329m) and Mt Batok lying in close proximity to each other. Far in the distant is Mt Semeru (3676m), another active volcano. The grey sea of sand is a little eerie (moon-like) and together with the surrounding lush green wall of trees, plants and flowers offers a tremendous contrast.

The “thing to do” is get up at 3:30am, and watch the sunrise from a viewpoint called Gunung Penanjakan (2770m). We were told (and read) that it was a 2 hour walk, and since we were planning on walking more afterward, we opted to take an ojek (motorbike taxi). It turns out it was a very short ride there and the easy walk would’ve taken only one hour! Oh well… It was still dark when we got dropped off, and we had to carry on up on foot. We had forgotten our headlamps, which resulted in a funny incidence- we were walking along when suddenly Honza dropped to half his size with his head almost to the ground! There was no time for me to laugh, as I then fell and had one leg in a hole and the other trying to hold myself up! In light of the situation, all I could was shout “Honza help me!” (which is now a running joke). We were both alright- although maybe just bruised egos...Luckily it was dark ;-)

We shared the viewpoint with about 70 people; so not a peaceful and quiet morning. And it was cloudy, so the sunrise wasn’t that spectacular, but the views down to Bromo and Batok and the immediate landscape were just remarkable!

The next part of the day was just fantastic! We wanted to climb Mt Semeru, but getting to the starting point (13km away) was a bit tricky. We arranged to get a ride on an ojek about half the way.
This was a hand-gripping, ass-shaking, eye-closing, please- God of a ride! The path crossed the grey ash desert, going around to the other side of the volcano. It was a rough, bumpy, but oh-so-fun of a ride! The scene around me was indescribable! I had an active, belching volcano on my right, the tall green wall on my left and rough terrain in front. It’s perfect four-wheel drive territory, so on a bike it’s even more exhilarating and fearful! (My brother and his bike would’ve found their home here!). After going around, we started to climb the green wall- the road (a mere collection of loose rocks and stones) went literally straight up! I was afraid the bike would tip backwards or we would hit a rock at the wrong angle… but the driver knows the terrain, so I trusted him. They dropped us off at this junction (for the amount we paid them, they wouldn’t go any further). So we took our backpacks and hit the road. Walking along the path was something out of Lord of the Rings- so lush, overgrown with vegetation and a feeling that the path would take us to some hidden land, concealed in time and place. I was secretly hoping a hobbit would pop out from the bushes!

For the next 1.5 hours we marched on until we did stumble upon a village- locked away in the hills, lost in time! It was dreamlike to come over the hill and gaze out into the distance- to this small Swiss-Austrian-like village- called Ranu Pani. We did know that this village existed, but I didn’t expect it to feel as if we had entered another time. Yes, they have cars, motorbikes etc, but the feeling in the air was something special, something beyond description. Here is this tiny village that is locked in the hills, isolated by 2 active volcanoes and where their daily lives consist of farming, harvesting, collection and planting. There’s only one main road, so we walked past the daily activities- school kids playing, women working in the fields, old, wrinkly men sitting in the shade. And of course we caused quite a stir- “Hello mister! Hello mister!” I never get tired of their hellos.

We were looking for a man called “Pak Taslip”, who apparently rents sleeping bags for the climb. It’s a small town, so anyone we asked pointed us in the right direction. We eventually found his home, and met his daughter (who spoke English well). She informed us that we couldn’t climb, since the volcanoes activity at the moment isn’t safe, also that the trail is closed until May. This news didn’t upset me, as I was already completely worn-out! So we walked back. And man, was the return journey draining! My legs felt like they were dragging lead in my shoes and it took all my energy to persist. We tried to take a shortcut- taking a path that runs along the ridge of the wall. It didn’t work out, but we did get to witness impressive views of the plateau below. Once we got down to the plateau, we had to trek across the sand sea, back around Bromo. Honza is like speedy Gonzales, so I was alone for most of the time…I felt like I was in another world, with another me. Time seemed to have stopped, and I felt like I would walk this walk for eternity- things in the distance never seemed to come any closer, no matter how much I walked. Perhaps fatigue made my mind a little crazy… To pass the time I belted out Beatles, Mariah Carey and Bob Marley. I even made up my own songs. Eventually I caught up with Honza and we sat on the grey sea of sand and gazed up at the mighty, roaring Bromo. We even got a tinsy winsy little bit singed by hot ash coming off the mountain. (I found black specks in my hair the next day).

Man, was I relieved to be back at Café Lava! We had a deservingly cold beer to celebrate our accomplishment. I had every reason to be dead tired- I had been awake for 14 hours and walked for 10 of them! My feet were sore, my thighs ached and I stank but I was too tired to shower (I have downgraded my level of acceptable hygiene to a very low point). A dreamless sleep came fast that night.

Posted by piratejax 05:38 Archived in Indonesia Comments (0)

Living it up with the locals

I'm on a boat, I'm on a boat. Everybody look at me because I'm sailing on a boat!

The only way to truly experience a culture is to get down and dirty with the locals; and this is exactly what we did! We read that it’s possible to take a ferry from Kalimantan to Java, so we did some investigating to find out more information. To get factual information was a difficult task! There are three ferry companies who do the run to Java- but all three would only be issuing a schedule the day before the ferry leaves- typical Indo! We managed to sort it out though.

We took a taxi from Pangkalan Bun to Kumai and waited in the docks to board. Since it was full inside the waiting area, we decided to sit outside. Some kids come and sat around us- smiling and saying “hello mister”. At least 5 people told me “panas” (it’s hot) and indicated for us to come sit in the shade… it’s funny how westerners crave the sun and being tanned, whilst the east shy’s completely away.

The time came for boarding, and people were calm and walked in an orderly fashion. We had to dodge between huge trucks to get to the upper deck- even for me it was a tight squeeze! We followed the crowd and found 2 seats. The area we were in was a big room, with movie theatre-like seats (about 250). In front there was a stage, which later proved to be death to my ears. There are also sleeping quarters, but I will explain this later.

The boat was supposed to leave at 2pm, but in true island style, we only left at 4:30pm. Since we were the only foreigners on the boat, we go a lot of attention. Sometimes I sat at the rear of the boat and I would have an audience of about 30 men staring down and across at me. In the beginning I could really feel it, and I felt a little uncomfortable, but the next day- it was old news to me. I must have had my photo taken over a dozen times, and sometimes someone would just hold their phone out in my direction and snap a shot.

Dinner was, well, no French cuisine- just rice, a tablespoon of watery-nothingness-soup and some fish. My fish still had his fins (looked like wings…flying fish?) on, and I didn’t want to spend any more time in the toilet than what was necessary; so I skipped it. There was also a live music show, which proved to be an ear deafening situation. There were two girls singing local songs, with some guys dancing with them on the small stage. Not even my mp3, turned up full blast, could block out the noise that lasted over 2 hours!

Honza met a couple, from Java, who spoke a small amount of English. There was some space in their sleeping cabin, so they invited us to sleep there. Now, the thing I love about Asians is when it comes to sleeping they are not at all finicky about the arrangements or conditions. In Korea it is common for many people to all sleep together on the floor, in one room. You would never see a similar sight in the west. I guess we have too much personal space that needs to be kept empty.
I am not sure how many little cabins there were, but I think about 10 or so. In each cabin there is space for 60 people to sleep, in a space of 6m by 4m. It’s a small space, but never once did I feel that the guy next to me was invading my space. I’d compare it to a morgue (sorry for the macabre visual!)- A long slat (above) jutting out of the wall covered with carpet, and below the same thing. Each person has a small cubicle with a hard “pillow”, as well as a divider near the head. So if the person next to you ate too much garlic at dinner, at least you won’t have to deal with it.
I slept surprisingly well (minus the loud singing: call to prayer at 4am), maybe got 6 or 7 hours and when I woke up in the morning my body wasn’t broken nor my neck achy- so maybe hard pillows are the way to go? The kind couple offered us some biscuits and nuts. It was rather fun to chill out, amongst these people, while they tried to speak all the English words they knew.

The toilet situation. Now I’ve seen my fair share of toilets in my life, and if on a scale of 1-10; with 10 being a 5-star hotel toilet, then the toilets on this ship would be a measly 1! The situation got worse as the journey went on- more people got seasick, more people had to drop loads and oh man! - It stank so nasty! I even saw one girl without shoes on in there! I shudder to think what diseases or parasites live on the floor of a ship’s bathroom. Urgghhh!!!!

Smoking is allowed basically anywhere in Indonesia- in hotel rooms, restaurants, taxis etc. So of course there were hundreds of smokers aboard- smoking everywhere (thankfully not inside the sleeping cabins) and then throwing their buds into the sea! I wondered the ship to find a spot of non-smokers, but to no avail. No chance of me getting a gasp of fresh, sea air in this place. (And I do think I have cut my life down by a few years by just being in Indonesia- the air pollution in the cities is just terrible beyond words! I have actually tasted it in my mouth after being outside).

A risky fact and one we knew of before we embarked the ship, was that in the past few years many of these ships have sunk. We heard a story about one ship that just went down during a storm- it was hit by a massive wave and then couldn’t recover. Everyone on board drowned.
I did check the weather the day before and the forecast looked good- no heavy storms/tsunamis. And the very first thing we did when we got on board was to check for the location of lifejackets and lifeboats. So, yes there was a risk involved, but the experience prevailed! :-)

The following day went past super fast! I had more photos taken, got some more stares and just enjoyed staring out into an open sea with no land in any direction. If I sat outside and watched the ship go up and down in the waves- my seasickness worsened. I had to look at a point in the sea to feel better.

I also got angry and saddened by the disregard and ignorance some people had for the sea! On numerous occasions when I was sitting outside, people would just throw pieces of plastic, cigarette boxes or chip packets overboard! As if “someone else would deal with it”. And I wondered why they did this, why they don’t know how much it hurts the environment and why they didn’t think to throw it in a rubbish bin! Environmental education is seriously lacking in this part of the world, and I think it’s our responsibility to change this!

After being aboard for about 25 hours, we reached Semarang. We took ojeks (motorbike taxis) to a train station. It was a rather exhilarating ride! It seemed like there had been some recent flooding, so some parts of the roads were a huge puddle! This city is polluted, littered and just urgghh! We managed to get tickets for a train heading to Surabaya, leaving in 20 minutes (not surprisingly it only arrived 1.5 hours later).

The train was a great change from the ship: quiet, air conditioned and no up and down motion. We stayed the night at a cigarette smoke-smelling hotel. It was so great to be able to wash my hands properly- I think the water run a bit brown…

The next day we continued our journey by train to Probolinggo and then organized a minivan to take us to Cemoro Lawang, a gateway village to the Bromo- Tengger- Semeru National Park. The home of one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen in my entire life…
To be continued :-)

Posted by piratejax 02:59 Archived in Indonesia Comments (2)

Tanjung Puting National Park

Person of the forest

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I have tried to sit down and write this entry three times now, but I couldn’t seem to put my experiences into coherent sentences. But I shall try now to give you a sense of what I saw, felt, tasted and enjoyed as best as I can. Hope it turns out alright…

Our trip wouldn’t have been possible without the help of a lovely man named Mr Danson. Mr Danson owns a small eco tourism company based in Pangkalan Bun. We received his name and number from the hotel we stayed at in Pontianak. And so on our first day in Pangkalan Bun we arranged to meet with him to discuss an itinerary, costs and all other details. His company organizes everything- the “klotok”, the crew, our own personal cook, and a guide.

A klotok is a houseboat- so there’s an upper deck, covered, with plastic side panels that can be rolled down during a storm. Below is a small kitchen, a bathroom and sleeping place for the crew.

A car picked us up from our hotel and drove us to the jetty in a small town called Kumai. We met our captain (who brought along his son and nephew- to show them the ropes), our cook (a young girl from Kumai), another helper and our guide, Muk. Muk is a 24 year from Pangakalan Bun whose been guiding for the past year or so. His English was good and he had plenty to tell us about the park, the orangutans, the rainforest and more.

We set sail and headed for the rainforest…. Lunch was served at 12pm-a great feast of rice, vegetables, fish and watermelon. The entire time we were treated like king and queen. It was rather nice to be treated so well, but after a while it got a bit much and rather unnecessary.

We passed buildings dedicated to the breeding of a special kind of bird. Now, these aren’t just any old singing birds- instead their saliva is collected and sold to the Chinese (who drink it for medicinal purposes)…Anyone up for a freshly squeezed glass of bird saliva to accompany your lunch? No one? Ok, then….I’ll carry on….

Once we turned off from the main waterway, we entered a small river which twisted and turned passing the dense rain forest of the Tanjung Puting National Park on either side.
A few hours later we arrived at Camp Leakey. This camp (and the other 2 we visited) was established in the 70’s as a rehabilitation center for orangutans once kept in captivity. The orangutans are taught how to live and fend for themselves in the wild. There is also research centers aimed at studying the habits of these amazing creatures.

We arrived at Camp Leakey to find a mother (Princess) with her two children chilling on the dock. To see these animals up close in their natural environment was an extremely special experience for me. To watch the kids play with each other- rolling, tugging and flopping was just incredible. Princess just sits there calmly, while her children crawl on her or tug her hair.

I was leaning against the railing and one young orangutan clambered up to me and rubbed his face on my arm, then fiddled with my bracelets. Utterly marvelous!

From my brief experience I found them to have some intelligence, are calm, and inquisitive and the babies are just adorable! (Some “mother instinct” stirred in me ;-)). The males are territorial and the older they get the bigger their “cheekpads” get (due to testosterone). We were lucky enough to meet Tom- the kingpin of this area of the forest. And if I was a male orangutan, I would not want to get on the wrong side of him! He is huge! Apparently he shows up at the camp whenever he feels like it, and if there are no bananas left- he is guaranteed to throw a hissy fit! For us he was in a good mood. It was fun to watch him try to crack open a coconut and later watch as he let one of the young orangutans have a drink from the coconut.

We also walked to the feeding station (about 1.5km in the rainforest) to see some more orangutans in action. Every day they are given sweetened milk and sometimes bananas to eat. It was like a meditation to watch these animals; inspirational. And what is rather striking is how similar some of their body parts are to humans- their hands and the lines on their palms, as well as their nails and ears.

An example of their intelligence- we were on the boat and the captain threw a rope to the dock- Princess comes along and takes hold of the rope attached to the dock and starts to pull the boat in! (She wanted bananas). It was such a funny sight! She also knows some basic sign language. Another funny example- we were walking back from the feeding station, in the pouring rain, when we came across an orangutan sitting on the ground with one of his arms pulling a branch over his head- he was using the leaves as an umbrella to protect himself from the rain! Man, it was cute! I think Honza took a photo, so I’ll upload it later.

The word “orangutan” comes from the Indonesian word for “person” (orang) and “forest (hutan). So literally it means “person of the forest”. Orangutans are found only on Borneo and Sumatra, and at the moment they face extinction- with a heartbreaking 92% decrease in their numbers in just the last century! And just some quick facts- 75%, yes 75%, of Indonesian rainforests have been destroyed to clear space for palm trees! Shocking!! When we flew from Pontianak to Pangkalan Bun, I could see how much of the forest had been cut down for palm tree plantations. We have tried to not buy any food containing palm oil, but when the majority of Indonesian products contain it- it’s virtually impossible not to consume it :-(

Due to the decrease in rainforests, these camps are so vital for the survival of the species, as they provide a place for once-captive orangutans the chance of a proper life, and also to create public awareness about the possible extinction orangutans face. These animals and their plight touched me somehow, and I don’t think it’s the last I see of them…

Living aboard a houseboat for 3 days was just spectacular- away from noise, air and technology pollution. There was nowhere to be and nothing in particular to do- but just enjoy the scenery and sounds around us. We played some scrabble, and I’m ashamed to admit that Honza beat me…just once though! At night we slept under a mosquito net with frogs croaking, monkeys chattering and the odd bird the only sounds we could hear.

I think word got out that “fresh blood” had arrived because I seemed to always have some living creature trying to get a taste of me! First it was mosquitoes, then while we were walking these flying bugs seemed to always land on my arms, then while I was standing watching Tom- my ankles were attacked by fire ants! And they aren’t sweet and cute ants- they bite!

Another primate we saw amongst the tree tops was the proboscis monkey. They are funny animals- with a long, drooping nose. They stay hidden in the forest until about 4:30pm- after which they make their appearance along the water’s edge.

On one of the days we went trekking through the rainforest. It was more like a swamp- so there were these planks we had to walk on. I was happily going about my business when my left leg misjudged the width of the plank and it went straight down into the swamp. So there I was- squatting with my right leg on the plank and my left leg, hip deep in mud, leaves and whatever else. Honza immediately took this as an opportunity for a “jungle photo shoot” while I stood there laughing at the stupidness of the situation. A word of advice- never wear white shorts in a jungle- no matter how long you soak them, they will never be white again. Oh well, at least I have one less item of clothes to lug around!

There was this one watch tower (used during the dry season to check for fires) in one of the camps, which we climbed and hung out at for a while and enjoyed the cool- mosquito-less-breeze. Muk played us some traditional Indonesian music- really interesting sounds.

On the last day we visited a small village with a population of about 600. It was fun to sit on their porches while we waited for the rain to make up its mind. The wooden houses are positioned on either side of the central water channel which is used for bathing, washing and transporting goods. Cows, ducks, dogs and chickens freely roam the road.

Seeing the simple way these people live, without the excess of material wealth, food or other unnecessary shit; made me ashamed of my life and the times when I have wanted more and didn’t appreciate what I already had… The west (in my opinion) has a messed up perception of what it means to be “successful”, and I don’t need a big fancy house or a shiny car or a high paying career to be “successful”. The people I have met here are simply living their lives without wanting more and at the same time are extremely grateful for all that they have. And on top of this- I have never received as many smiles as I have in the past 4 weeks- they just don’t stop! :-)

The day after we returned from the trip, we went into town to arrange our ferry tickets. Mr Danson, being the fantastic man that he is, did it all. We met Muk in his office who asked us if we would go with him to his weekly English club. We spent the next hour just talking with these kids and adults. Honza had the guys, and I had the girls. Their level of English was really good despite their young ages! The girls enjoyed K-pop (Korean pop) and Korean dramas, so it was rather bizarre to be talking about Korea, kimchi in a small town in Borneo! They even have Facebook… The world is getting smaller and smaller.

A humorous observation: in both Malaysia and Indonesia I have been a little confused: why do they sell watches everywhere, when they have no sense of time?

Phew! That was long…. Well done if you read it all! Proud of you! :-P

Our next destination is Java! Later this afternoon we are taking a 25 hour- ferry ride to a city called Semerang (east of Jakarta).

Peace and Love

Posted by piratejax 19:01 Archived in Indonesia Tagged boat_orangutans_forest Comments (0)

Intro to Indo

From the bus to the streets of Pontianak

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Wild jungle left and right. Narrow road- barely enough space for two cars to pass; the bus driver hoots at every turn. Dodging scooters and motorbikes galore. Bare feet kids playing soccer on sand. Kids flying kites. Entire families riding on one motorbike-few helmets. Smiles. Shirtless guys just hanging out. Laundry hanging out to dry at every bend. Slanted rain. Rusting roofs and old jeeps. A bakkie with over 30 people in the back all wearing triangle hats and smiling. Two or more chairs outside every verandah- some empty, others occupied with an exhausted old man or a kid or a mother. Women working in the fields wearing triangle hats. Piles of perpetual rubbish, polluted cesspool of rivers- a lady bathing in the river. Huge fruit plantations. English sparse. Watched. Vulnerable. Bombarded at the border. Yes, I am married- my husband’s over there. No, thank you. Really, I’m fine!

Cheap hotels. Friendly and helpful- eager to be of assistance. Young man filling in the form, apparently my country of origin is “Africa”. I love it. Never ever toilet paper- just a basin or a bucket filled with water next to the hole, which you scoop up with a scoop to clean and flush with. Noisy and busy streets- daunting task to cross the road. Pollution in my mouth, in my lungs. I enjoy the safe haven of the hotel... Do we have to go out again?

Quick flight to Pangkalan Bun- a small, quiet town in the south east of Kalimantan. Aaah, I can breathe again!

Tomorrow we embark on another adventure into the Borneo jungle, but this time on a “klotok”…floating down the river.

Posted by piratejax 05:07 Archived in Indonesia Tagged bus_jungle_pollution_people Comments (1)

Bako National Park

The sweet taste of Borneo

Bako National Park is Sarawak’s oldest National Park, situated north from Kuching. The park’s 27 sq-km area extends out into the South China Sea and has incredible diversity in terms of mammal, bird and reptile species. The park offers 17 different trails- trekking through dense jungle, with some reaching all the way to the sea.

The only way to get to the park is by a speed boat, so upon arriving to Bako village, we found 2 other people to split the cost of the boat and we were off! Andrea was a lady from Australia- who had a few days break after doing some work in Singapore and Islim was an Egyptian living in England.
We registered, left some stuff at the headquarters, and then made our way to the trails. Islim joined us on the trails, and he proved to be excellent company. The first trail we took, took us to a high viewpoint overlooking the sea and a small cove below us. We stopped to observe some ants (seemed like a million of them!) marching home- it was incredible to watch the organization and how every ant kept in line, with only a few wanderers or some going the wrong direction.

The next trail took us through dense jungle with tall trees and protruding roots we had to carefully walk over. We ended up at a small cove, with a nice beach, but muddy water. I was so hot, so I stripped down to my costume and took to the water. The deeper I went- the cooler it got. We hang out there for a while, getting nice and roasted!

Islim had organized a boat to take him back at 4pm, so we made our way back to the headquarters. Honza and I were going to stay the night in the park, so we had time to go back into the jungle…. We found another, smaller cove and sat on a log and thought about life (well, that’s what I thought about- I can’t say the same for Honza. Maybe he was thinking of dinner or how long it would take him to swim across to the island across the bay, who knows!).

Along this path we came across a family of macaques- small, naughty monkeys. They were just chilling, cleaning themselves and each other. Two of them were playing with each- rolling around, goofing about.

The sky was beginning to change, so we rushed back to not get caught in it. Supper was at the canteen- basic Malay food- rice, fried noodles, fish, chicken, some vegetables and fried eggs. You paid for only what you piled on your plate, and since I didn’t eat any meat/seafood, my meal cost a total of basically nothing! :-)
We sat outside, with a view of the sea. Andrea and this one German dude joined us. I really enjoyed his humour- dry, witty and sarcastic. He was from Munich and worked as a taxi driver. He told us of his experience in Bangkok… he was sitting in a bar and was approached by 2 girls who started a conversation with him. Later they offered him some beer, he accepted and the next thing he was out cold- unconscious. He remembers being taken in a tuk-tuk. He thinks they then injected him with some antidote, because the next thing he remembers is being shoved out of a tuk-tuk and slowly coming to. They stole everything-but were nice enough to leave him his credit card, “so at least I could carry on with my trip” (although they did withdraw about 400 euros from it).

We shared the room with a couple from Spain. They worked as scuba diver instructors, and had about 6 months off a year: off season. The sky did open up and dropped its load steadily over a few hours- fantastic sound to fall asleep to!

The next morning we went on another trail, about 6km. The connection between my legs and my brain were beginning to fail, so I almost fell several times. It was also probably due to heat exhaustion. After a few hours we arrived back-just in time for another cheap chow.
There were now quite a few people fine dining at the cafeteria- from France, UK, Spain, Poland, Singapore and (we think) Denmark.

Later, we took a boat back to the rush of reality.... but looking forward to the next leg of our journey....Indonesia!! :-)

Posted by piratejax 03:20 Archived in Malaysia Comments (0)

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